December 27, 2011

Africa Overland - Top 10 Planning Hints & Tips

Hi Folks,

Now our trip is over, we have taken some time to update our website and Blog with data you might find useful for planning purposes (applicable to any country for an extended trip).  You can see our full FAQs list at our website

In the meantime, check out our summary Top 10 lists you might want to consider - we would love to hear more Tops 10's from other people.

What were the top 10 most useful items you took?
  1. Water filter - Hands down the best investment
  2. Multi-fuel stove - Efficient, don't need to fiddle with gas
  3. The COBB - Great for slow cooking, bulk food, BBQ, roasting & making pizzas!
  4. Vehicle Side Awning - Sun shade in tropics is essential
  5. Roberts SW Radio - Great for BBC World Service, news & African programmes
  6. Vehicle mounted side table - handy & space saving for cooking, esp. in rain
  7. Rear mounted tap - great for convenient washing of hands / kit / utensils
  8. Hennessy Hammocks - nice alternative place to sleep, lie down on hot days
  9. Caravan power hook up - power was available in a lot of places (eases battery drain)
  10. SPOT Messenger - Excellent for location tracking, keeping friends & family up to date
What were the top 10 least useful items you took?

  1. Camp Kitchen table - odd shape, bulky (we gave it away)
  2. Roof rack bag - Initially good, but leaked and rotted in sun (metal roof box better)
  3. Thermarests - never used, lent them to people once
  4. Large rucksacks - bulky, took up space, used once, used shoulder bags
  5. Money belts - never carried wallet, not needed (carry cash that you need)
  6. DC / AC converter - ours was a cheap one (not Sine Wave) buy better one next time
  7. Two way radios - only useful if other people know how to use them & switch them on!
  8. Board games - packed too deep in locker, pain to get out
  9. Random tools - took too many and hardly used them
  10. Lots of adaptors - took too many attachments, mainly used British plugs on multi-gang
 What were the top 10 things you would do differently next time?

  1. Don't rush! - You are on a journey of a life time, so take time to "stop" - we still spent 1 year on the road and in some countries wished we had stayed for longer
  2. Realise that it takes time to adapt from "9-5 normal life" to 1 year on the road - it takes approx 6-8 weeks to get used to life on the road - its not a holiday ;-)
  3. Have improved storage in vehicle - we rushed our system / it self destructed!
  4. Sit inside / sleep in vehicle - It does get cold in Africa, good to be able to keep warm, get out of rain / damp.  Its also nice to have some privacy sometimes.
  5. Have roof tent open over the rear - its 50:50 on this - you gain shade at back
  6. Make sure its easy to get to fridge !!
  7. Try not to pack things in too many boxes - they take up space.  Lockers are better.
  8. Take Blue metal water jerry cans - The Black plastic ones leak
  9. Take a spare alternator - It was the one item we should have packed
  10. Might consider alternative Malaria prophylaxis (just take test kits / treatment)

Nick and Vick
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11
48,361km in 366 days

Importing 4x4 into South Africa Duty Free (Returning South African)

Hi folks, if you are reading this, you are either about to embark on an overland trip, taking part in one or just about to complete one. Either way, if you are a returning South African (like my wife) we want to share our experience of importing our Land Rover duty free into SA after our London to Cape Town trip 2010/11.  This process is likely to be the same for a motorbike or truck traveling on a Carnet but as rules change, this is now possibly out of date.

We offer the following is a summary / check list for any returning South African citizen that has a foreign registered vehicle and wishes to import it into SA free of duty. There are several things that you need to consider BEFORE you set out as there are some items that need to be addressed in your departing country before you set out on your journey if you want to avoid a lot of hassle when you get here. Even though there are various guidelines available on this process, things "on the ground" are often different and even our clearing agent in Cape Town had to jump through a few hoops.

STEP 1 - Key items to have sorted before you depart

MOST IMPORTANT FOR THIS SCENARIO: The car has to have been registered in the SA citizens name for at least 12 months prior to returning to SA, so make sure the registration papers reflect this. Other import scenarios may have different rules and rules change!

- Original SA Passport (or IF dual citizenship, foreign passport) of returning SA citizen should clearly state departure and arrival times stamped in the passport of when you came into country and when you left SA – THIS IS KEY!
- Even if the entry date is on an old passport – bring the old passport with you otherwise you will have to produce an authorised affidavit to cover any discrepancy.
- Letter confirming employment by foreign employer – this has to be an original and signed / dated. Copies will not be accepted. Get at least 2 signed originals just in case your paperwork gets lost in the system!
- Letter confirming resignation or no longer employed by foreign employer – again suggest 2x originals, signed and dated
- Valuation certificate of car – this seems to be a grey area. You can go and get a trade in valuation done and have it written on official letterhead of the garage that did the valuation (ideally a dealer in your marque)
- Your ID book – Needed as additional proof as SA National
- Intl Certificate of Motor Vehicle – you can get this from your country where the car is registered – UK AA in our case
- Registration Certificate from the cars normal place of origin (registration documents V5C in the case of UK)
- De-registration as a taxpayer – when you leave your country you have to let the Inland Revenue know that you are leaving. There is a form for this and you will need a copy of this form. It will have to be certified as an original copy (by police or lawyer)
- Carnet – You will / should have this for your journey anyway. For those people that hope / plan to travel and get into SA with a fake Carnet – good luck!! Based on the process we went through it would be HIGHLY unadvisable to try this!!

STEP 2 - Procedure once you get to SA

At port of entry you only need to get the Carnet stamped into SA when you finally get here (i.e. the entry stub stamped) – same process for all the other countries you visited along the way.

You do not need to fill in any forms at the border with regards the car import process. We even asked about this at the time and they simply refused to discuss it saying the Carnet “entry” stamp was all that was needed.

The following forms / process need to be followed

- Form DA304 : Motor Vehicle Declaration from SARS
- Form P.1.160 : Declaration in Respect of Unaccompanied Manifested Effects Entered Under Rebate of Duty
- Compliance Certificate (Issued by Manufacturer)
- Letter of Authority (Which will have to be applied for by the NRCS)
- Import Permit (Which will have to be applied for by ITAC)

There will then be the possibility that you will need a Customs Exam of the Car, this is at Customs discretion AFTER perusal of your Carnet. Even if you are told that this is required, it maybe cancelled at the last minute. We did not have to have one in the end.

A provisional payment may also be requested as surety for the duties and vat applicable, again at customs discretion so be prepared for this.

You are aiming to get your Carnet exit stub stamped by SARS – this is key if you are to discharge the Carnet and get your Bank Guarantee / Security Insurance / Deposit cancelled.

Even though we had all of the above, we still had to get an affidavit stamped by the SA police to state that the dates of residency in the UK for the SA National and to cover a discrepancy on the passport (the wife’s old passport with this info in had been destroyed)

STEP 3 - Procedure once you complete all the paperwork

When this process is over – it can take up to 2 months – you get the following back from Customs:

- Stamped Carnet – exit stub is stamped by SARS / customs
- Customs Release Notification
- SAD507 Customs declaration form
- SAD500 Customs declaration form
- Copy of NRCS Letter of Authority
- Copy of Import Permit Notification
- Copy of completed DA 304A Motor Vehicle Declaration from SARS
- Stamped original of DA304
- Stamped copy of your declaration of particulars
- Stamped copy of affidavit we submitted
- Your original vehicle registration papers

You are now able to go and register the vehicle in SA.  We posted the Carnet back to RAC UK and emailed copies of the SARS release form (we made a copy for our records).

So how did we do it / what did it cost?

When we got to SA we hooked up with a logistics / import company when we finally finished the trip – Why? Well, the above process is not that simple. Anyone that has dealt with “officialdom” in SA will know 3 things:

1) You are going to spend a lot of time waiting and finding offices etc…..
2) You are likely to be dealing with people unfamiliar with the process (the process can appear to vary from person to person on any given day!)
3) Paperwork can / may get lost and no one is really going to look too hard for it

The benefit of using an agent is they already have established relationships with all the people needed to get the car released, they know the process / forms and they can minimise the amount of time and cost spent driving / calling around to various offices to chase paperwork etc….This is important if you have limited time or are spending time travelling elsewhere when you get here.

We used Ashraf at IQSA and he was VERY helpful and professional. Whilst there is a fee associated with the service, we felt it was worth paying. We saved a lot of time & money simply on fuel costs for driving in and out of Cape Town to various places to get things sorted. We would highly recommend him!!

Mr Ashraf Mallick
IQSA Logistics

Cape Town, South Africa
Tel : + 27 21 697 5443
E-Mail :


Certification & Bill of Entry = R3,135 = £250
Service Fees & misc costs = R1,824 = £145
Postage of Carnet back to UK = R64 = £5

Nick and Vick
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11
48,361km in 366 days

July 22, 2011

Our medical kit & health on the road

We have just spent 1 year travelling overland in a Land Rover in Africa and wanted to share with you our medical / health care tips.
Hygiene & Basics
Two overriding issues you have to think about are clean drinking water and basic body hygiene.  Bugs love Africa!!!  We used a charcoal / ceramic water filter and filtered all water we consumed orally.  We never got seriously ill and only had a couple episodes of "50:50" number 2 action.  We also washed our hands and tried to have flannel washes when water was low or no showers were handy (that's quite often in Africa).  Bottom line, keep clean and drink clean water and you minimise a lot of problems.  Also, if you cut yourself, clean it and treat it quickly with Savlon or Savlon spray.  Cover up feet, ankles and arms in the evening.  We only used DEET on our clothing and tried to avoid spraying it on our skin.  
We also had all our jabs done well in advance - we had approx' 7 visits to the local clinic in the UK.  Visit your GP and chat with the nurse.  They have access to MASTA and can advise what you need based on your route.  You will need Yellow fever certificate and a list of the jabs you have had, it does get asked for in Africa, esp. Nigeria!!
We took the Lonely Planet pocket health book.....VERY good buy and it helps give you a second opinion if you are a solo traveller.  Its small enough to pack in a bike too.  We looked at this a lot!!

What medical kit did we take?
We have listed the main items we took.  They were packable into 3 small bags (pictured).  We kept a basic kit in the front cab and the smaller medical kits were kept in the shade / cool part of the vehicle.  We kept our malaria pills, text kits in the fridge.  We have tried to indicate the frequency of usage too as a rough guide. 

  • Doxycyclin tablets Malaria prophylaxis - used daily
  • Malarone tablets Malaria treatment   (4 Tablets in one dose for 3 days) - not used
  • Canesten / Clotrimazole cream Topical cream for vaginal / skin fungal infections - used
  • Vagisil cream Treatment for vaginal irritation - not used
  • ASPAR / Hayleve antihistamine tablets Treatments for hay fever & allergies - used
  • Hydrocortisone / Eurax Topical cream for non infected itchy skin rashes - used
  • Mycil / Daktarin cream & Daktarin Powder Anti fungal treatment for athlete’s foot - used
  • Chloramphenicol antibiotic ointment Infected eyes / bacterial conjunctivitis treatment - not used
  • Safyr Bleu Eye irritation liquid drop treatment - used
  • Savlon Pavidone spray Treatment of skin wounds, abrasions - used this a lot!
  • Sodium Chloride solution ampules Washing of small wounds - used
  • Cetrimide / Germolene / Savlon antiseptic creams Treatment of minor cuts - used this a lot
  • Calamine cream Treatment of sunburn & windburn - used
  • Ibuprofen tablets Musculo skeletal pain relief / anti-inflammatory  - used a lot
  • Paracetamol tablets General pain relief / headaches - used
  • Lemsip powders Treatment for flu - used
  • Friars Balsam liquid, Sudafed tablets, Strepsil sweets Treatments of colds / cold decongestion - used the latter
  • Senokot tablets (laxative) Treatment for constipation - not used
  • Normalone / Imodium tablets Antidiarrhoel treatment - used once
  • Electrolade powders sachets Rehydration treatment - used several times
  • Haemorrhoid suppositories Treatment of hemorrhoids / pain relief - used once
  • Bisodol (tablets) Antacid treatment - used
  • Aquatabs tablets Emergency water treatment - not used
  • DEET - used sparingly and generally on clothing
Medical Hardware
  • NOMAD Sterile kits x 3 - used some items from these kits
  • Dental kit x1 - never used
  • Malaria near Patient Test Kits - used once for another person
  • Compeed blister pack x1 - used once
  • Tapes (various) - used Antiseptic wipes (various) - used
  • Latex gloves (various) - used
  • Rehydration spoons x2 - used once
  • Plasters, bandages & burn dressings (Various) - used
  • Wound dressings (various) - used
  • Steri-strip wound closures (various) - not used
  • Tweezers - used Scissors x2 - used
  • Thermometer - used Safety pins - used
  • Emergency foil blankets x2 - not used
  • Emergency glow sticks x2 - not used
  • Blood donor cards - reference only BUT good to know your blood group
What conditions did we get?

On the whole we only had minor complaints that were easily treatable:

Thrush, blisters, sunburn, athletes foot, headaches, dehydration, flu, 1x skin infection from mossie bite, a few boils, 1x hemorrhoid (old age).  We both suffered from sun sensitivity from using Doxycyclin tablets.  This was worse at the equator.

What extra medicine did we need?

We bought some Cyprofloxicin (for treating skin infections) in Mali.  Easily obtainable and good for treating infected bites and boils.

Nick and Vick
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11
48,361km in 366 days

Our budget - 1 Year in Africa, 2x people + 1x4x4


The budget is probably the biggest question you ask after you have solved the “where are we going” and “what vehicle are we taking”.  It’s perhaps the one we spent several months researching.  We found there was a real lack of detail when it came to showing where and how you spend your money on a trip like this so we made a detailed record on the trip and the data is presented below.  We hope you find it useful. 

Overview of spending
The costs below include EVERYTHING we spent on the trip once we started travelling.  It covers fuel, visas, food, tourist stuff, communications, fines, bribes, taxis, eating out etc...etc... BUT excludes all pre-trip costs / vehicle prep which are covered lower down this page.

Fuel was the main expense followed by eating out, accommodation and food shopping.  You could clearly lower the amounts you spend on eating out and accommodation, especially if you wild camp (see below) but to be honest, we found that after a long day of driving, sitting in a bar, eating local food and having a chat means you leave your “overland bubble” and interact with people more.  If you ate out less you would cook more so there is some give and take on this aspect of the spending. 

What kind of accommodation did we have on the trip?

What had we planned to spend Vs what we spent?

From our experience for 2x people and 1x 4x4 you need to be thinking of somewhere between €45-€60 per day for EVERYTHING for a year in Africa, and that includes being able to "relax", have the odd night in a hotel, enjoy a variety of tourist experiences, buy gifts, eat a healthy diet and treat yourself to the odd "blow out".  We had set an original budget of €49 / day and found we were on target for that by the time we reached Northern Namibia.  North, West and Central Africa were relatively cheap.  The charts below give you a feel for the spending we incurred for the whole year.  

Southern Africa is a lot more expensive and if you want to do tourist "stuff" it starts to add up and so we started to deviate away from the planned budget.  This is even more so if you hit the school holidays or want to visit some of the famous / popular parks.  

We ended the trip after 366 days with an average spend of €58 / day.  For people travelling on foot, by bike, motorbike etc...Budgets will vary from ours and will also vary for different regions of the world.  Africa is not as cheap as you might think.
Types of budget 

During the year we met a few overlander folk doing similar trips to ourselves.   It was a lot quieter on the west coast route.  We did hook up with some of them and travelled some sections together but most of the time we were on our own.  We found from these experiences that the people appear to fall into 3 main types of budget (based on 2x people & 1x4x4), you might want to consider this “rough” assessment as a means to measure your own plans Vs what you can expect on the trip. 
1) Minimal Budget <€40 / day
People on this kind of budget have trip that is dominated by juggling an extremely small budget with very little if no contingency.  These people tend to spend most of their time doing things on the cheap and when the cash runs out the trip is over in what ever country they happen to be in.  They tend to be travelling without proper paperwork, a vehicle that needs constant attention or repairing and day-to-day activity seems to focus on finding the cheapest source of food or hanging around back street garages haggling for something to be welded or scrounged.  There is little if no spare cash for gifts or tourist related activity and when you hook up with them you tend to find that you quickly become a surrogate contributor towards the things they don't have (after a while this becomes a real pain and very tiresome).  We also found they tend to be poorly equipped and are not really set up to travel off-road without support.  Sadly, and whilst its not a universal observation, we did note that their budget had a major impact on how they travelled and also (in the case of 3 couples we met) their attitude to other people they came into contact with.  There seemed to be a strange (competitive) focus on who can travel the furthest for the least amount of cash, which in our view, is not what the trip is about. 

2) Realistic Budget €45-€60 / day
This group of people have a budget that has sufficient cover for a range of activity on the trip including site seeing, tourist stuff, gifts and contingency for vehicle repairs / things going wrong etc....  They tend to be well prepared with a reliable vehicle and have sufficient equipment to travel remotely / off the beaten track without support for extended periods of time.  The trip can accommodate some changes along the way and pace of travel is slower and more relaxed.  Accommodation tends to be simple and realistically priced with a focus on camping / bush camping with occasional stays in hotels / eating out as a treat.  The end date is fixed or flexible and the budget will see them through to the end, even if some mechanical work is needed along the way.  
3) Money No Object Budget >€60 / day

This group of people have a massive budget that has sufficient cover for pretty much anything.  They can change their plans at will and can afford to stay in top end campsites / hotels on a more frequent basis.  They can undertake more expensive site seeing / tourist stuff and have a pretty large contingency for vehicle repairs / things going wrong etc....  They tend to be very well prepared with a high-end vehicle and have sufficient equipment to travel remotely / off the beaten track without support for a considerable period of time.  Pace of travel is very relaxed.  Have the ability to eat out regularly and the end date is flexible.

Pre-Trip costs

The day-to-day budget previously discussed is often linked to what you have left over after you have spent your hard earned cash on the vehicle, its preparation and pre-trip spending.  The figures below are good estimates based on getting a sound base vehicle, fitting it out to basic but reliable level with mainly new equipment and the obligatory paperwork / medical kit.  Other costs are included too. Key areas to consider are:
  1. Base vehicle cost in 2006: 10-12 year old Defender 110 with 100k+ miles (unmodified): £3k - £5k.  We note that you can pick up some good deals in the LRO / LRM magazines as people appear to off-loading vehicles at discounted rates at present - so happy shopping!  Take vehicle to a dealer for a 30 minute check over.  For Land Rovers key areas to focus on are oil and water leaks from engine, condition of cooling pipes, leaks from diffs and gearbox.  Clunking noise from UJ wear on drive shaft, play in drive shafts, condition of radiator and alternator, tyres, check shocks for leaks, rock car to check for bearing wear, check for welds on drive member ends, condition of springs (especially rear springs) and service history.  Check for dates and mileage when Cam belt timing chain was changed and also the last time the serpentine belt was changed. 
  2. Mechanical work, service, MOT, misc repairs, labour & VAT: £2k - £3k.  Can’t stress that having this done is key unless you can do it yourself, you learn a lot on the trip!!!
  3. Basic (new) overland vehicle equipment, preparation, labour & VAT: £10 - £12k.  We got new equipment mainly because it lasts and we are glad we did.  The sun and heat kills fabrics and does strange things to plastics.  Kit we used the most includes, gps, tyre compressor, waffle boards, winch, winch accessories, awning, roof tent, water filter, SPOT messenger, jerry cans, extra fuel tank, extra water tank, Engel fridge, fuel sedimentor.  The role cage was an added extra but one we felt was a good investment.  
  4. CARNET depends on the value of your vehicle and where you go - expect paperwork to cost £250 (ish) and depending on the security an extra £300 (ish) to cover this.
  5. Visas, medical, paperwork, misc administration £2k
  6. Other big costs: We sold our house and imported the vehicle into SA when we arrived.  This means we did not need 2 x flights home or shipping costs (this could cost approx £3500). 
  7. Importing a car for a returning South African on a one-way trip like ours costs about £500 (ish). We will post a report on this when complete.
  8. If you rent out your house furnished there will be admin costs etc ....while you are away and additional storage costs if you rent it out unfurnished that could add another £1-3k to your cost base, especially if you have to pay to store items.
As you can see, costs add up quickly, but they are realistic and based on real quotes / research.  Labour and VAT are a big factor if you are getting a lot of new parts and someone to fit them.  One thing we have observed, and many overlanders do comment (retrospectively) that they wish they had spent more £££ upfront and not cut corners or bought a vehicle already prepared with all the gear.   We have heard a couple of accounts where the trip was a nightmare because things went wrong in a big way!!  e.g. $2000 to get a tow for a broken down car in Central Africa, paying $500 for your vehicle NOT to be fixed at a back street garage and on top of that having your laptop nicked while it was in the garage.  It seems expensive at the start BUT finding parts and getting things fixed if there are MAJOR mechanical issues along the way is not easy in remote parts of Africa. So spend money on getting the car fixed up before you go.


Everyone is different and what you spend on your trip will vary from the above based on your mode of travel, location and spending habits.  The overall lesson we learnt is that it does help to SET a budget and TRY and stick to it BUT allow yourself some wiggle room.  Eating bread, drinking water and starving yourself does not really save you that much money in the long run and we found having the odd blow out is a treat worth waiting for.   The flip side to this is you can actually become ill and then you have to spend money on medicines etc...  A year on the road is longer than you think and its takes it toll in more ways than one.  Good hygiene and a good medical kit are areas to focus on and mitigate costs, the water filter was the best buy as we rarely got ill.  The vehicle prep is key and having a basic level of kit is important.  Whilst you can get spares on the way, it takes time and money to find them.  What you spend up front, saves you money in the long run and we would be very sceptical about couples who tell you you can survive in Africa on $25 / per day travelling in a 4x4 to remote locations like we did.  Survival Vs having a good time / exploring are two different things!

We hope you find this article useful and would welcome any feedback on your own budget Vs what you spent Vs where you went Vs duration of the trip.  We would like to compile a summary and share this via Overland Live.  Please email data to me at: nick @


Nick & Vicki
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11

July 21, 2011

366 Days - All good things come to an end :-(((


Countries visited – Mozambique, Lesotho & South Africa

Miles travelled –  3248 miles
Sunny days – 25 days
Coldest night –  -2’C at Sani Top, Lesotho
Warmest day – 32’C in Vilanculos, Mozambique
Cheapest fuel – £0.68, Mozambique 
Best food tasted – The most delicious smoked bacon from a farm in Baardskeerdersbos…this was the real thing!
Easiest Mountain Pass – Sani Pass from Lesotho to South Africa
Most useful things – 
Least useful things – The persistent mozzies we encountered on our last night in Mozambique - DAMN YOU!!


1) The mini ‘high’ season that we bumped into in Mozambique. It was more relaxed and less packed the further North one went which was pleasant.
2) The selfish South African caravaners who packed up camp and then parked their massive caravans and cars blocking the entry/exit point of the campsite as they had showers…how rude!


1) Visiting the Bazaruto Islands to go diving and snorkelling, absolutely spectacular and proper ‘paradise’ beaches. 
2) Going on a snorkel safari which is the craziest thing in it’s own but we got to see some mighty Whale Sharks and Manta Rays.
3) The fantastic views on our drives through Lesotho down the Sani Pass and all the way along the old ‘Transkei’ hills and coast.
4) Visiting the Nelson Mandela museum in Mthatha, Eastern Cape. Very interesting, informative and it’s free to visit. One big block of history well worth visiting.
5) Reaching Cape Agulhas, quite surreal that we had just driven all the way from Morocco but very satisfying.
6) Being able to catch up with friends and family on the way home. Thank you to Dean, Danielle, Athena & ladies, Eddie, Ant, Bronwyn, Jeanne, Graham, Rejeanne, Doekle, Lizzie & Marc. 


1) We passed the Tropic of Capricorn one more time…we crossed this Tropic a whole 6 times on our trip!
2) It’s not comforting passing ‘Hijack Hotspot’ signs in a heavy Land Rover on the outskirts of Joburg. Anybody who owns a Defender will know the acceleration rate is lacking!
3) Finding a campsite that has industrial washing machines and tumble dryers, I couldn’t contain my excitement and had to do a load of washing!! (Hadn’t seen a tumble dryer for over a year.)
4) We left Cape Town on a stormy day in May 2010 and we returned to Cape Town on a stormy day in May 2011 - Karma!
5) One year and one day on the road and way too many memories to list here!!

Thats all folks!

48,361km after we started, we are now living our new life on the Western Cape, South Africa.  It was a strange day when we pulled into the drive and odd to be living in a house again.  But its the start of a new adventure and a new chapter in life.  Some things we missed for sure while we were away but home is home and we are now HOME! 

Viva the people of Africa!
Viva the great continent of Africa!!

Nick & Vicki
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11

330 Days - Things get a little too wild!


Countries visited – Botswana, Zimbabwe & Mozambique

Miles travelled –  3118 miles
Sunny days – 27 days
Coldest night – 9’C near Bulawayo in Zimbabwe 
Warmest day – 39’C we had two days of this temp, one in Maun and one near Nxai Pan
Cheapest fuel – £0.65, Botswana
Best food tasted – Camp dinners in Okavango Delta & the set meal at Elephant Sands, Botswana
Worst meal/food tasted – Mopane worms - Nick says they taste of "wood"....  after all, thats what they eat!!
Best wild camp – In the bush near Moremi & Chobe National Parks, Botswana. Should really be the scariest one as it was certainly wild!  Got invade by 50+ elephants and 3x lions roared under our canopy for 2 hours!!
Most useful things – The mega torch we bought for when we went camping in the bush.
Least useful things – The Swedish Pink Caravan that invaded our camping pitch…Grrrrr… & the advice that all the roads in Mozambique are terribly potholed from when you cross the border…this is rubbish, the roads in Moz were actually surprisingly good, things are moving on.


1) Hearing from other travellers that they refuse to visit Zimbabwe because of politics. This is heart breaking as we have travelled many countries that don’t have ‘ideal’ political situations but by refusing to visit a relatively stable country I feel that one is just boycotting the average person trying to make a living. Sometimes one has to see beyond a countries leader for the sake of travelling and experiencing something amazing.
2) Realising that we are on the homeward stretch and that our adventure will soon be coming to an end.


1) Visiting our friends Sim and Kate who run Elephants for Africa at their base camp for their Okavango research programmes. A real treat for us being able to visit the Delta and even more so being able to spend time with the researchers on some of their daily sample and information gathering. Thanks again EFA, we hope to visit again.
2) Close encounters with wildlife…. This came in the form of wild camping near Moremi & Chobe. We had our scariest night yet camping alone in the bush with curious elephants and roaring lions who got comfy under our awning till the sun came up.

3) Zimbabwe!! The most amazing people yet with some great wonders to visit. Victoria Falls (with a visit to the Vic Falls Hotel for high tea, totally scrummy), Hwange National Park where the staff couldn’t do enough for you & The Great Zimbabwe Ruins amazingly restored and they have enthusiastic & informative guides to show you around. Bearing in mind that tourism has been hard hit in Zim with little money to re-invest in fixing/updating things you will find that staff will always try and ensure that broken things are repaired and that things are as clean as they can be with their resources. Aside from this, if I were to visit Natiional Parks based on service and the welcome, I would choose Zimbabwe over Namibia & Botswana. 


1) We had a near cow pat incident en route in Botswana. Driving with ones windows open opens the potentially high risk of been pat splattered…..luckily the fresh pat that was projected by a car passing us magically only hit our windscreen and the side of Dassie…how we didn’t get splashed is unbelievable!
2) One can buy old Zim dollars in the trillions as souvenirs. In the height of the unstable currency 1 trillion Zim dollars was worth US$32 for one day only.
3) When visiting a Zimbabwean National Park you pay an entrance fee, which is valid for 7 consecutive days as long as you stay in the park, quite good value when comparing to Namibia & Botswana’s Parks.
4) Steele & Amber, a couple from Australia who win the prize for being the lightest travellers we met. You have our admiration guys, well done!
5) We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn another two times.

Nick & Vicks
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11

March 28, 2011

300 days - Dassie’s heart attack (aka dead alternator) & More spectacular scenery

Countries visited – Namibia & Botswana
Miles travelled –  2739 miles
Sunny days – 27 days
Coldest night – 14’C Shark Island, Luderitz
Warmest day – 37’C Abu Huab River, Namibia
Cheapest fuel – £0.63, Namibia
Best food tasted – The scrumptious farm lunch with Oryx that Ina made for us at Steinfeld’s Land Rover Garage.
Worst meal – Wimpy burger with soggy roll….NEVER AGAIN!
Best wild camp – Steinfeld Farm, near Keetmanshoop, Namibia – stars were amazing!!!
Most useful things – Finding LR parts in Swakopmund (brilliant customer service), great value and very helpful.  Albert & Christo improved Nick’s understanding of the Land Rover by 1000% (not hard to do in reality)
Least useful things – Overlanders passing us without stopping when we broke down and seeing lots of commercial overlander trucks full of 20 something Americans who think making lots of noise at 4.50am is a hoot!  We are getting old after all.


1) Our first proper breakdown where we didn’t have a spare to repair Dassie straight away. Our alternator decided to start self-combusting on the road to Luderitz. Well timed in an area where you can’t leave the road as it’s a diamond mining area and there is no phone reception….. an aptly named gentleman called Gabriel, came to our rescue and towed us alarmingly fast to a campsite in Luderitz.  Nick changed the alternator like some sort of mechanical God – he is getting better with the Haynes manual.


1) Adding Lions, Hippos, Wildebees, Elephant, Black-Faced Impala, Red Hartebees, Black Backed Jackals, Banded Mongoose, Dwarf Mongoose, Secretary Birds and many more beasts to our “spotted” list.  Flying over and into the Okovango National Park and meeting our friends (Sim & Kate) that run “Elephants for Africa”.  Amazing to see elephants at close hand, amazing food, people and memories.  Gin & Tonic sun downers after the Makoro boat trip a must – we will be back!!
2) Meeting some more “like minded” overlanders in Swakopmund, Aus & Windhoek. We thoroughly enjoyed listening to traveller’s tales and having a good laugh.   Hope to see you again guys!
3) Driving the Skeleton Coast National Park, amazingly stark with the contrast of dunes and fierce crashing waves…..and yes – there are lots of skeletons.
4) Visiting the Save the Rhino Trust camp, they have really cool showers.
5) Seeing the Garub wild horses en route to Luderitz, a great place to while away the time watching inter-politics between the horse groups.
6) England winning the 6 Nations


1) We have passed the Tropic of Capricorn 3 times already.
2) Nick has had his fix of fixing Dassie by rejuvenating her suspension (coil springs and shocks) on a perfect workshop floor…a sandy campsite
3) We were ‘upgraded’ to a chalet at a guest farm due to an impending thunderstorm, which was going to potentially flood the river then the campsite. Totally unexpected, and a most welcome night in a real bed for us. If anybody is passing from Soussusvlei to Helmeringhausen then do stay at Barby’s guest Farm, really lovely.
4) An alternator is quite heavy, especially if you have walked 2km from the post office with it….even heavier when you drop it in the engine bay and you skin your knuckles whilst getting it out and you are getting sun burnt!

Nick & Vicks
Stonehenge to Cape Town 2010/11

Botswana: The Bradt Safari Guide, 3rd: Okavango Delta, Chobe, Northern Kalahari (Bradt Travel Guide Botswana)   Nature Wonders OKAVANGO DELTA Botswana  Cry of the Kalahari